Recipes

  • Caramelised figs

    Caramelised figs

    The fig is a very useful plant. Its leaves have protected the modesty of Adam and Eve, as well as a host of naked mythological beings, and the fruit is among the most splendid that nature produces.

    It is ironic that the leaf of the fig should be so used to avoid inflaming passion in viewers of great art, when the fruit of the tree is incredibly sensual to look at as well as eat. Further, the sap of the green parts of the fig is an irritant to human skin; a freshly plucked leaf is hardly the best choice as a covering for delicate parts.

    The fig is one of the first plants cultivated by humans and may even predate wheat and rye. The Romans new several cultivars and even used them to fatten geese for superior foie gras. Figs were considered so valuable and desirable in ancient Athens that there were strict laws to control harvest. The word ‘sycophant’ has its origins in ancient Greek – it literally means ‘showing the figs’ – and was used to refer to anyone who had informed on another for exporting figs (forbidden) or tattling on those who had stolen the fruit of the sacred fig trees.
    Tree-ripened figs picked first thing in the morning, with the chill of the evening still on them, is one of eating’s greatest pleasures. Figs are also incredibly good for you. They’re high in calcium and fibre and are a great source of potassium. The fig has lots of antioxidants and plenty of flavonoids, which have anti-allergenic, anti-inflammatory and anti-cancer properties.

    I cooked most of the figs whole but cut a couple in half to fit them into the baking dish. The halves were really good – extra tasty because the caramel syrup was drizzled directly over the interior.

    Serve with a piece of very good cheddar like King Island Reserve, Spanish Manchego or French Cantal. A glass of Spanish Pedro Ximinez on the side is excellent.

    The Recipe

    Caramelised figs
    large, very ripe purple figs
    water
    caster sugar
    Preheat oven to 230C.
    Dip the figs in water and then roll in caster sugar so that there is a generous coating all over the fig.
    Place the figs standing up in a ceramic dish with sides. You can cut some of the figs in half if you like (see above) to make a neat fit in the dish.
    Bake for about 20 minutes or until the sugar has dissolved on the outside and the fig looks richly brown. The syrup formed in the bottom of the dish should have taken on a caramel quality.
    Remove from the oven, cool, spooning the caramel syrup over the figs as they cool. They will collapse slightly.

  • Dacquoise with dark fruits

    Dacquoise w dark fruits

    A Dacquoise is a famous French gateau from the town of Dax.

    It is composed of thin discs of nut meringue layered with flavoured butter cream (coffee is popular) or whipped cream and fresh fruits.
    My original idea was to simply sandwich the layers together with home-made blackcurrant jelly and whipped cream. On the morning of Dacquoise production, the fresh blackberries in the fridge pleaded to play a part. This turned out to be a good idea. The blackberries, dotted over each meringue layer, made a handy structure to ‘contain’ the cream and prop up the layer on top.
    You can use any fresh fruit, with or without a complementary jam or jelly. Pureed apricots are also excellent.

    The Recipe

    Dacquoise with dark fruits
    8 egg whites
    pinch salt
    200g caster sugar
    1 tsp vanilla extract or paste
    150g ground almonds
    75g finely chopped, roasted hazelnuts
    blackcurrant jelly preserve (as above)
    whipped cream
    blackberries
    half cup lightly roasted blanched almonds, chopped
    icing sugar
    Preheat oven to 180C. Line 3 trays with non-stick baking paper. Grease the paper and mark a 20cm circle on each.
    Beat the whites with the salt until very stiff. Beating all the while, gradually add the caster sugar and vanilla. Keep beating until the meringue is very thick and shiny. Gently fold in the nuts by hand. Spread the meringue over the marked circles. Bake the meringues for 20 minutes at 180C and then turn down to 150C and bake for a further 10 minutes. They should be nicely brown. Turn the trays as necessary. Let cool a little, invert onto wire racks and carefully peel away the paper. When cool store in an airtight tin with baking paper between the layers.
    To assemble the Dacquoise:
    Place a meringue on a serving plate. Lightly spread blackcurrant jelly over the meringue. No need to be neat. Dot the meringue with whole blackberries. Dollop the cream around the fruit. Spread blackcurrant jelly over a second meringue circle. Place this over the cream and berries. Press down gently. Top the second circle with berries and cream. Pop the third meringue on top. Gently press the chopped almonds into the top. Dust generously with icing sugar.
    You can keep the cake in the fridge. The meringue layers will be deliciously chewy.

    To make the blackcurrant jelly: Place the blackcurrants, stems and all, in a large pot. Cover with water, pop on a lid and cook over very low heat for an hour. Place a strainer over a large bowl. Line the strainer with 2 layers of muslin. Tip the cooked blackcurrants and juice into the muslin. Tie the muslin into a bag (without squeezing) and suspend this bag over the basin (hanging from the knobs of overhead cupboards works well) so that the juice can drip through. Leave for a few hours until the bag has stopped dripping. Measure 1 cup sugar for each cup juice. In a very large pan stir the juice and sugar together just until the sugar has dissolved. Over very high heat boil the mixture until jelly point has been reached. Measure this on a cooking thermometer or watch carefully – when the mixture wants to keep foaming up to the top of the pan, it is ready. (Forget testing it on a saucer – if it jellies immediately it has gone way too far.) Take off heat, remove scum and cool a little. Pour into sterilised jars and cover.

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